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Bruges

Belgium’s most visited destination is also Western Europe’s most popular medieval city for good reason, says Anisha Patel. And it’s not (just) the chocolate.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANN VAN WESEMAEL

 

Despite being the most popular port of call on mini-cruises, Zeebrugge (Bruges-on-the-Sea, literally) is underwhelming. Thankfully, the cargo- and crane-lined port is only where you dock to visit the real crowd-puller, which lies a further 17km south. Otherwise known as the Venice of the North, Bruges comprises a UNESCO-protected city centre where tiny bridges cross weaving canals, and a maze of cobbled streets smell of freshly made chocolate. Most cruise ships stop off here for the day as part of a mini-cruise or en route to the Baltic and Scandinavia, but the eight or so hours you do have to explore the city’s highlights are ample, thanks to its delightfully compact size.

Coming from Zeebrugge, the first thing you’ll spot are The Belfort tower, a landmark of the West Flanders province, and The Church of Our Lady, which dominate the skyline of the otherwise miniature city. A colourful but attractive mishmash of gothic, medieval, Romanesque and renaissance architecture lines the main squares, The Markt and The Burg, but brewing behind these old façades, you’ll also discover ultramodern dining venues and designer boutiques that are bound to wow.

Where you dock
Zeebrugge is one of Europe’s fastest-growing cruise ports. Its easy access to Bruges and Brussels means that it attracts more than half a million passengers each year. Book a shore excursion, and a 30-minute coach transfer will bring you to the heart of the city. Otherwise, there are infrequent trains costing €2.40 (£2.15) one way from Zeebrugge-Strand station, about 1km from the docks, and taxis start at £35. Once in town, the city is incredibly walkable or make like the locals on two wheels, which you can hire yourself (see Get Out of Town).

Shore excursions
P&O’s bestseller A Taste of Bruges, a 30-minute canal boat ride, is ideal for skimming the highlights, especially for those who have difficulty negotiating the cobbled pavements. Most cruise lines, including P&O, Cunard, NCL, Silversea, Princess and Holland America, also offer comprehensive walking tours of the city. Out of town, the historic battlefields of Ypres are perfect for history buffs, and village life in Male and Damme can be seen by bike with NCL and Princess. Cunard and Princess will take you further afield to Antwerp, while Ghent and Brussels are on most cruise lines’ tour offerings.

A day stop
The Hospitaalmuseum (Maristraat 38), a former 13th-century hospital, is one of the oldest and most striking buildings in the city and the canal-side grounds and old medicinal herb gardens are definitely worth taking in. It also houses a handful of medieval paintings by renowned Flemish artist Hans Memling. Take a break at Eetcafé De Vuyst tearooms (Simon Stevinplein 15, +32 50 342 231), in a less hectic, leafy square where locals meet and mingle – the outdoor seating is perfect for people watching. Despite Bruges’ diminutive size, there are still some off-radar hidden pockets to discover. In St Anna’s Quarter, north east of the centre, you’ll find 18th-century almshouses (charitable houses) that were set up by the wealthy and are now free to explore, and The Jerusalem Church, modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, along Balstraat.  

Get out of town
Pick up a bicycle in town (Bauhaus Bike Rental, Langestraat 135, +32 50 341 093; €9 (£8) a day) and pedal up to the dainty village of Lissewege for a slice of truly quaint Flemish life. Most cyclists stop off for a quick thirst quencher, but it’s worth saving your lunch date for Ter Doest (Ter Doeststraat 4, +32 50 544 082), a former 12th-century Cistercian abbey that now houses a rustic restaurant serving up their own reared meat in a prettier-than-a-picture rural setting.

Shop
Belgium is bursting with fashion talent. The best (and up-and-coming) talent, such as the cool style of Dries Van Noten, can be found under one stylish roof at L’Héroïne boutique (Noordzandstraat 32, +32 50 335 657). If you dock on a Wednesday, the bustling morning food market in Markt is a treat for all the senses, otherwise De Westhoek (Noordzandstraat 39, +32 50 336 032), a traditional deli stocking local cheeses, breads and meats, is another foodie haven. They’ll prepare a picnic for two with wine for €25 (£22.50). And you can’t turn a cobbled corner without stumbling upon a chocolatier. The Chocolate Line (Simon Stevinplein 19, +32 50 341 090) is popular for its modern creations, but local residents prefer the traditional, family-run Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc (Katelijnestraat 5, +32 50 330 887). Their speciality all-chocolate boxes make great gifts.

Eat
You’ll find tempting prix fixe menus all over town that are worth ditching the diet for. The homely Restaurant De Koetse (Oude Burg 31, +32 50 337 680) does an affordable, three-course ‘happy lunch’ for €20 (£18) with hearty favourites such as steak frites and an unmissable chocolate mousse. For cutting-edge dining, Rock Fort (Langestraat 15, +32 50 334 113) follows the Heston Blumenthal/El Bulli molecular gastronomy bible to create a ‘glocal’ (local ingredients with a global twist) and seasonal menu. Manuscript at the Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace (Prinsenhof 8, +32 50 447 584) has started experimenting with the trend, too – the sea salt, olive oil and hot bitter chocolate pudding is a must – but they also offer Belgian classics. The 15th-century fairytale palace setting is incredibly romantic.

Nightlife
Built five years ago, the modern Concertgebouw (‘t Zand 34, +32 50 476 999) hosts live jazz, orchestras and classical music concerts and occasionally has matinee shows at the weekend. The building offers a contrast to the rest of the city’s design, and a panoramic cityscape from the seventh floor if The Belfort is overcrowded. Wind down before you return to port with a canal-side sundowner on the terrace of Restaurant The Sixties (Molenmeers 11, +32 50 476 947), or for good old-fashioned beer at its best, seek out De Garre (De Garre 1, +32 50 341 029), a creaky but cosy little pub hidden off Breidelstraat for a refreshing pint of the local Brugse Zot brew.

For more, call 0800 916 3233, visit cruisethomascook.com, your local Thomas Cook or Going Places store, or see Thomas Cook TV, Sky channel 655

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