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Port guide: Copenhagen

Charming, walkable and with a dazzling variety of herring, could this be the most perfect port city? Tobi Cohen thinks so


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If Carlsberg did port cities, like the advertisement goes, this might just be it. It’s wonderfully compact, cosmopolitan, user-friendly and true to its fairytale heritage (this is, after all, the home of Hans Christian Andersen, as well as Carlsberg beer). It’s the kind of clean that even Mary Poppins would approve of and, as highlighted by the recent conference on climate change, prides itself on its environmentally friendly credentials. Instead of skyscrapers, the city skyline is punctuated with church spires that only add to Copenhagen’s allure. And, if that isn’t enough, everybody in the Danish capital speaks English, which makes shopping and ordering in restaurants a cinch. Is there a more charming and accessible stopover or base for Baltic and Northern Europe itineraries? Last year, 600,000 cruisers didn’t think so.

Where you dock

Your ship will dock at one of the city’s two ports: Langelinie Pier or Freeport Terminal. The city centre is a 20-minute walk from Langelinie Pier, the more popular port and the one used for day stops. This pleasant stroll takes you past the famous Little Mermaid statue (though bear in mind the famed landmark won’t be on her perch from late March till late 2010 as it is going on display at Shanghai’s World Expo), Amalienborg Palace (the royal residence) and the wonderfully quaint canal street of Nyhavn. There is a bus (number 26) which takes 15 minutes and will cost DKK 15 (£1.85), a waterbus, at DKK 40 (£4.90), which you can then hop on and off for the rest of the day, or a taxi, which will cost around DKK 80 (£9.80) and take 10 minutes. There are also bikes, which can be rented for free and are an ideal way to see the city like the locals. This is one of the most cycle-friendly cities in the world and roads even have their own sectioned-off lanes.

Freeport Terminal is the port you would generally embark or disembark at, and is a little further out.

You can walk, but it will take you an hour. Cruise lines usually organise shuttle buses but, if you want to make your own way, a taxi will cost around DKK 120 (£14.70) and take 15 minutes.

Shore excursions

Copenhagen is a walker’s and cyclist’s paradise, so it’s a good idea to take advantage of the cruise lines’ walking and bike tours. Royal Caribbean, for example, offers general tours, as well as tours focusing on attractions such as the 19th-century Tivoli Gardens or the city’s lauded design. Looking to go further out? Royal Caribbean has a seven-hour excursion that will take you out to the castles of Northern Zealand, down the Danish Riviera. Silversea and NCL will help you to tour the Carlsberg brewery, while P&O will organise a tour of the city from a tram or a visit to the fantastically modern Opera House.

A day stop

Copenhagen is a great (and easy) city to explore on your own, too. A picturesque way to get your bearings is a canal boat tour with DFDS (www.canaltours.dk) for DDK 60 (£7.35), which collects passengers from the postcard-pretty Nyhavn and Gammel Strand, in town. The tour will take you past the ultra-modern Henning Larsens Opera House and the Royal Library, whose striking 1999 addition is nicknamed Black Diamond, for its tilted black marble and glass exterior.

The region’s culture and history is amply covered by the city’s impressive museums. Start by exploring Danish history – including its Viking roots – at the National Museum (Ny Vestergade 10, +45 3313 4411, www.natmus.dk), which also has a children’s museum on the ground floor. Across the road you’ll find the Dansk Design Center (HC Andersens Boulevard 27, +45 3369 3369, www.ddc.dk), which is free on Wednesdays between 5-9pm.

A 10-minute taxi ride from here is where you’ll come across Copenhagen’s wonderful art gallery, Statens Museum For Kunst, Sølvgade 48-50, +45 3374 8494, www.smk.dk), which showcases local and international art that goes back to the 14th century. Realistic paintings of early Danish life sit alongside modern video art, all housed in a magnificent 19th-centry Italian Renaissance-style building.

The enchanting Tivoli Gardens (www.tivoli.dk) amusement park is a must-visit, but check ahead as it is only open for selected months of the year.

Out of town

Take a 35-minute train by the sea to the beautiful countryside of Northern Zealand. Contemporary art lovers will adore Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk, +45 4919 0719, www.louisiana.dk, closed Mondays), which has a panoramic view across the Øresund, the strait between Zealand and the Sweden province of Scania.

Shop

There are lots of lovely independent stores dotted across Copenhagen but, if time is of the essence, it’s best to stick to the city centre. Aside from a few exceptions, such as the palatial homeware emporium Illums Bolighus (Amagertorv 10, +45 3314 1941, www.illumsbolighus.dk), Royal Copenhagen china (Amagertorv 6, +45 3313 7181, www.royalcopenhagen.com) and kookier interiors haven Hay House (Østergade 61, +45 9942 4440, www.hayshop.dk), you’re better off avoiding the main pedestrianised shopping street, which is dominated now by international chains. Instead, wander down side streets and discover gems such as the delicate accessories and minimal fashion boutique Bülow + Wieben (Lille Kirkestræde 5, +45 3131 0612) or Pede & Stoffer mens’ and womens’ designer clothing stores (Klosterstræde 15 and 19, +45 3333 8830 and +45 3315 2850, www.pedestoffer.dk).

For those on the hunt for vintage Danish ceramics and furniture, a 15-minute taxi or 45-minute walk will bring you to the hip Nørrebro neighbourhood, with its shops filled floor to ceiling with bric-à-brac. Head for Nørrebrogade, Ravnsborggade and Sankt Hans Square.

Eat

Aside from Danish pastries, one of the most exciting local foods is the open-faced sandwiches called smørrebrød, with fillings that range from herring to potato salad and beef. To try a more traditional version, Slotskælderen hos Gitte Kik (Fortunstræde 4, +45 3311 1537) has all its dishes laid out on a buffet, which makes it easy to choose. One of the best – and more modern versions – in the city can be found at Aamann’s (Øster Farimagsgade 10, +45 3555 3344, www.aamanns.dk), located near the art museum. All the ingredients here are organic, and it’s a definite stop for foodies. It’s only open for lunch, and reservations are a good idea.

With more Michelin stars than Rome, Copenhagen also has a reputation for its fine dining, which promotes regional produce. It’s not cheap, but for a meal you will never forget, head for MR (Kultorvet 5, +45 3391 0949, www.mr-restaurant.dk), which specialises in seafood and unusual, tasty delicacies ranging from curried banana chips to crispy cod skin with salt and vinegar.

Know this

The CPHCARD gives you unlimited use of the city’s train, bus and metro system, as well as admission to 60 museums. You can buy a card at tourist offices or online (with 10 days’ notice) at www.copenhagencard.com.

Cruise Thomas Cook offers fly cruises to/from Copenhagen with Star Princess, for more, call 0800 916 3233, visit www.cruisethomascook.com, your local Thomas Cook or Going Places store, or see Thomas Cook TV, Sky channel 655

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